ARGENTINA

The Power Of Penguins

On a seamlessly dark night at “The End Of The World”, inside the first house ever built in this desolate place, Ethan and I had the worst fight of our marriage. Concern about a gas heater sparked it, travel fatigue fueled it, and the fact that we had no electricity, telephone or other way to call for help was the equivalent of gasoline on an open fire.

Estancia Harberton is a 50,000-acre ranch built in 1886 at the tip of Tierra del Fuego, the southern most spot in South America. The island got its name from early sailors who spotted the fires of natives blazing on shore and is home to Cape Horn, where the Atlantic and Pacific oceans come together in a rollicking collision that has led to many a sailor’s death. In later years, some marketing genius dubbed this desolate area “El Fin Del Mundo” (the end of the world) even though the world’s real end lies in Antarctica, another 700 miles south.

Thomas Bridges, a missionary from Harberton, England, established this bleak and beautiful outpost after the Argentine government gifted him the unforgiving land. Charles Darwin, in his “Voyage Of The Beagle” journal,…Read more…