TURKEY

Mind Over Matter At The Roman Spa
The early morning Muslim call to prayer in Sirince, a tiny town high in the hills outside Ephesus, seemed to come from just outside our window. The slender tower of the local Mosque was actually across the square, but someone must have turned up the volume on the loudspeakers wired to its whitewashed walls. The song that woke Ado and me at 6:00 a.m. sounded a bit like a wobbly Tarzan yell to my foreign ear, only longer and much more beautiful.In pajamas, the two of us snuck out of our tiny room at the Selanik Pansion, which had a carved four-poster bed, Turkish rugs and rough towels that had been twisted to form graceful white swans. This for $65 a night, including breakfast. In the grey, pre-dawn light, we climbed a cobblestone street into hills strewn with peach, olive, and quince trees, our only company the stray cats that darted constantly across our path.We were startled by loud braying and spotted a small donkey covered in fig branches. An old gardener had cut back several lush trees and was wrapping the leafy branches around the little animal’s body with a rope. When he finished, all that poked out was the donkey’s soft black nose, tail, and….Read more…